Cosmetics are substances or products used to enhance or alter the appearance of the face or fragrance and texture of the body. Many cosmetics are designed for use of applying to the face and body. They are generally mixtures of chemical compounds derived from natural sources (such as coconut oil), or may be synthetic or artificial.[1] Cosmetics that are applied to the face to enhance one’s appearance may be called makeup which include lipstick, mascara, eye shadow, foundation, blush, and bronzer, among other products.
In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which regulates cosmetics,[2] defines cosmetics as “intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body’s structure or functions”. This broad definition includes any material intended for use as an ingredient of a cosmetic product. The FDA specifically excludes pure soap from this category.[3]
HERBAL COSMETICS
1. HERBAL COSMETICS K.Sudheer Kumar, Assistant professor. Dept.of Pharmacognosy Chilkur Balaji college of Pharmacy Hyderabad. E-mail:sudheer.y2k8@gmail.com
2. The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word“kosm tikos” meaning having the power, arrange, skill in decorating .he origin of cosmetics forms a continuous narrative throughout the history of man as they developed.The man in prehistoric times 3000BC. Herbal Cosmetics, here in after referred as Products, are formulated, using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as “Herbal Cosmetics. Cosmeceuticals refers to the combination of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purporting to have medical or drug-like benefits. The “cosmeceutical” label applies only to products applied topically, such as creams, lotions and ointments. Products which are similar in perceived benefits but ingested orally are known as nutricosmetics
3. The skin diseases are common among all age groups and can be due to exposure towards microbes, chemical agents, biological toxin present in the environment, and also to some extend due to malnutrition. The skin and hair beauty of individuals depends on the health, habits, routine job, climatic conditions and maintenance. The skin due to excessive exposure to heat will dehydrate during summer and causes wrinkle, freckles, blemishes, pigmentation and sunburns. The extreme winter cause damages to the skin in the form of cracks, cuts. The science of Ayurveda had utilized many herbs and floras to make cosmetics for beautification and protection from external affects 10. The natural content in the botanicals does not cause any side effects on the human body; instead enrich the body with nutrients and other useful minerals
4. The cosmetics, according to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is defined as articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance. The herbal cosmetics are the preparations containing phytochemical from a variety of botanical sources, which influences the functions of skin and provide nutrients necessary for the healthy skin or hair. The natural herbs and their products when used for their aromatic value in cosmetic preparation are termed as herbal cosmetics The increased demand for the natural product has created new avenues in cosmeceutical market. The legal requirement and the regulatory procedures for herbal cosmetics are same as that for other chemical ingredients used in cosmetic formulations
5. The requirements for the basic skin care Cleansing agent: which remove the dust, dead cells and dirt that chokes the pores on the skin. Some of the common cleansers include vegetable oils like coconut, sesame and palm oil. Toners: The toners help to tighten the skin and keep it from being exposed to many of the toxins that are floating in the air or other environmental pollutants. Some of the herbs used as toners are witch hazel, geranium, sage, lemon, essential oils. Moisturizing: The moisturizing helps the skin to become soft and supple. Moisturizing shows a healthy glow and are less prone to aging. Some of the herbal moisturizers include vegetable glycerin, sorbitol, rose water, jojoba oil, Aloe vera and iris
6. Advantages of Herbal Medicine Herbal medicine have long history of use and better patient tolerance as well as acceptance. Medicinal plants have a renewable source, which is our only hope for sustainable supplies of cheaper medicines for the world growing population. Availability of medicinal plants is not a problem especially in developing countries like India having rich agro-climatic, cultural and ethnic biodiversity. The cultivation and processing of medicinal herbs and herbal products is environmental friendly . Prolong and apparently uneventful use of herbal medicines may offer testimony of their safety and efficacy. Throughout the world, herbal medicine has provided many of the most potent medicines to the vast arsenal of drugs available to modern medical science, both in crude form and as a pure chemical upon which modern medicines are structured
7. The Benefits of Herbs Enhance physical and mental well-being Strengthen the immune system Detoxification Aid in sleeping, digestion Increase stamina and reduce fatigue etc.
8. Name Important herbal cosmetics Uses/ Claim Herbal hair rinse Mint, bramhi & other herbal extracts Promote hair growth used in combination with heena/amla shampoo. Herbal hair conditioner Amla, sandal wood bramhi. And other precious herbs Prevent hair loss & act as scalp deep cleanser. Herbal hair Oil Arnica, Heena, Shikakai and other herbal extracts Specially created to prevent hair loss & promote luxurious hair growth. Hair Amla Shampoo Extracts of amla dates arnica and rate herbal extracts For normal to dry hairs. Cleansing the scalp while retaining & Stimulating hair growth. HERBAL HAIR PREPARATIONS
9. The most commonly used cosmeceuticals Boswellic acids It is obtained from Boswellia serrata. The main function is to inhibit the enzymes responsible forinflammation (5 – lipoxygenase) and damage of the skin. Tetrahydro curcuminoids It is obtained form white (colour free) curcuminoids of turmeric (curcuma longa) carnosic acid, cosmarinic acid, ursolic acid from rosemary extract Rosemarimus officinalis as anti oxidants are the other compounds which are used to facilitate the tissue damage and restoring the healthy status of skin. Retinoids A great amount of research has concentrated on its use as an antiaging compound as well as its use for other cutaneous disorders. Vitamin A and its derivatives have 2 main functions they act as antioxidants, and they activate specific genes and proteins. The ability of topical retinoin to improve the appearance of aged and photo-damaged skin by reducing wrinkles, decreasing laxity, bleaching hyper pigmented spots,
10. Hydroxy acids Hydroxy acids are organic carboxylic acids classified into Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) According to their molecular structure. Many are derived from natural sources and are often referred to as fruit acids. The different AHAs include the following: glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, and tartaric acid. AHAs have been shown to decrease the signs of aging. BHAs are aromatic compounds. Salicylic acid is the reference BHA; it has dermolytic properties and helps in various xerotic and ichthyotic disorders.
11. Antioxidants Most importantly reactive oxygen species (ROS) and other free radicals. These species are continuously produced during physiological cellular metabolism. To counteract the harmful effects of ROS, the skin is equipped with an antioxidant system to maintain equilibrium between the pro-oxidants, or damaging agents, and the antioxidants, or protective agents; these antioxidants intervene at different levels in the protective process. Here some of the antioxidants are listed below, Vitamin C Vitamin C is necessary for the hydroxylation of procollagen, proline, and lysine. Vitamin C improves and normalizes the changes caused by photodamage.Vitamin C has been used effectively to stimulate collagen repair, thus diminishing some of the effects of photoaging on skin.
12. Vitamin E Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) is the major lipophilic antioxidant in plasma, membranes, and tissues. The term vitamin E collectively refers to 8 naturally occurring molecules (4 tocopherols and 4 tocotrienols), all of which exhibit vitamin E activity. Its major role is generally considered to be the arrest of chain propagation in lipid peroxidation by scavenging lipid peroxyl radicals,hence protecting the cell membrane from destruction. Vitamin E topically applied before UV irradiation has been shown to reduce erythema, edema, sunburn cells.
13. Panthenol Panthenol, the alcohol analog of vitamin B-5, is a water-soluble humectant commonly found in various commercial skin creams, lipsticks, lotions, and hair preparations. It is stable in the presence of oxygen and light but unstable in the presence of acids, bases, and high temperatures. Panthenol is converted in the skin to pantothenic acid, which is an important component on coenzyme A essential for normal cellular metabolism. Glucopyranosides Resveratrol and polydatins are glucopyranosides found in many fruits and vegetables, the highest concentrations being found in grape skins, which synthesize these compounds in response to exposure to UV-A and UV-B and fungal pathogens.
14. Aloevera Aloevera is a herbal plant species belonging to liliaceae family It is an ingredient in many cosmetics because it heals, moisturizes, and softens skin. Simply cut one of the aloe vera leaves to extract the soothing gel. Aloe vera contains amino acids like leucine, isoleucine, saponin glycosides that provide cleansing action, vitamins A,C,E,B, choline, B12 and folic acid and provide antioxidant activity HERBAL COSMETICS
15. Carrot It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota belonging to family Apiaceae. It is a valuable herb since ages as due to its richness in Vitamin A along with other essential vitamins. Carrot seed oil is used as anti-aging, revitalizing and rejuvenating agent . The carrot gets its characteristic and bright orange colour from β-carotene, and lesser amounts of α-carotene and γ-carotene. α and β-carotenes are partly metabolized into vitamin A in humans
16. Neem Neem or Margosa . It belongs to the family Meliaceae. The Latinized name of Neem- Azadirachta indica-is derived from the Persian. Azad=Free, dirakht=Tree, i-Hind=of Indian Origin. The common treatment for the dandruff is Neem as it produces antifungal, antibacterial, pain-relieving, and anti- compounds that would treat dandruff
17. Turmeric It is a deep yellow-to-orange powder that comes from the underground stems of the tropical perennial herb Curcuma longa of the family Zingiberaceae. Turmeric contains a wide range of phytochemicals including, demethoxy curcumin,, zingiberene, curcumol, curcumenol, eugenol,curcumin,turmerones, and turmeronols.Curcumin is the phytochemical that gives a yellow color to turmeric and is now recognized as being responsible for most of the therapeutic effects. Uses of turmeric include antiseptic, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimalarial, insect- repellant, and other activities associated to turmeric
18. Henna Henna comes from the plant Lawsonia inermis family Lythraceae, which contain a dye molecule called Lawsone, which when processed produces. Henna powder. Besides lawsone other constituents present are gallic acid, glucose, mannitol, fats, resin (2%), mucilage and traces of an alkaloid. Leaves yield henna tannic acid and an olive oil green resin, soluble in ether and alcohol .Lawsone isolated from the leaves of L.inermis has shown significant antifungal antibiotic effect
19. Shikakai Acacia concinna Linn. Leguminosae is a medicinal plant that grows in tropical rainforests of southern Asia. The fruits of this plant are used for washing hair, for improving hair growth, as an expectorant, emetic, and purgative. The powder of Acacia Concinna Linn shows the presence of saponins, alkaloid, sugar, tannin, flavanoids, anthraquinone glycosides
20. Rose oil (Rosa centifolia family:-Rosaceae) Roses are widely referred to as the world’s favorite flower in part due to their vast diversity in plant habitat and floral characteristics. Rose oil and rose water have many therapeutic effects. Rose oil helps soothe the mind and heals depression, grief, nervous stress and tension. It also helps to heal wound and skin health
21. Amla Amla is the name given to the fruit of a small leafy tree (Emblica Officinalis), belonging to the family Euphorbiaceae which grows throughout India and yields an edible fruit. It is highly praised both for its high vitamin C content and for the precious oil, which is extracted from its seeds and pulp and used as a treatment for hair and scalp problems. It is used in eye syndromes, hair loss, and children ailments etc.
22. Coconut oil It is produced by crushing copra, the dried kernel, which contains about 60-65% of the oil. Coconut oil contains a high amount of glycerides of lower chain fatty acids. Coconut oil is derived from the fruit or seed of the coconut palm tree Cocos nucifera, family Arecaceae. The melting point of coconut oil is 24 to 25°C (75-76ºF) and thus can be used easily in liquid or solid forms and is often used in cooking and baking. Coconut oil is excellent as a skin moisturizer and softener .
23. Cyperus Roots and seeds of Cyperus rotundus belonging to the family Cyperaceae , commonly known as Coco grass, purple nut. It consists of terpenoids,hydrocarbons, Roots and seeds are used to treat fever, Cyperus also used to treat several skin diseases
24. Soap nut Dried fruit shells of Sapindus mukorossi belonging to the family Sapindaceaea Pulp of fruit consists of saponins(12%),these are the natural foaming agents It also consists of Palmtic,Steric,oleic acids. Soap nut is used to make shampoos,hair tonics,and other cosmotics
25. Bitter orange peel Outer layer of the pericarp of the ripe fruits of Citrus aurantium belonging to the family Rutaceae It consists of Limonene,citral,citronellal.it also shows Bitter Glycosides. Other constituents like Hesperidine,Pectin,Vit C Oil extracted from the peels used in perfumary industry,bitter orange peel shows Astringency in nature,it is an Aromatic,Carminative,Flavpuring agent.
26. Almond Oil The almond oil is obtained from Prunus dulcis. The almond oil basically contains about 78% of this fat. This oil contains very small amounts of super-unsaturated Omega-3 essential fatty acids . It proves to be very nourishing, and softens and strengthens the hair. The almond oil also proves to be a very good cleansing agent. Almond oil has been used for many centuries, even before it’s spread as a commercial agro-product
27. ADVANTAGES They do not provoke allergic reaction & do not have negative side effects. They are easily incorporated with skin and hair. With small quantity they are very effective as compared to synthetic cosmetics. Extracts of plant decreases the bulk property of cosmetics and gives appropriate pharmacological effects. Easily available & found in large variety & quantity. Easy to manufactures and chief in cost.
28. DISADVANTAGES Herbal drugs have slower effects as compare to Allopathic dosage form. Also it requires long term therapy. They are difficult to hide taste and odor. Most of the herbal drugs are not easily available. Manufacturing process are time consuming and complicated. No pharmacopoea defines any specific procedure or ingredients to be used in any of herbal cosmetics.
29. EVALUTIONS OF THE FINISHED PRODUCT The finished product should be standardized in terms of Shelf life Color Toxicity studies Biological assay Skin irritation test Sensitization test Patch test
30. STORAGE OF HERBS Herbs should be stored in cool and dry place. Moisture can damage the herbs. Also moisture promotes bacterial and fungal growth. Dried herbs should be stored in air tight container. Herbs should not be stored in direct sunlight.
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